Showing posts with label American Civil War. Show all posts
Showing posts with label American Civil War. Show all posts

Thursday, May 8, 2025

Sunken Road Trail, Fredericksburg, Maryland

On our way south for Spring Break, we stopped in Fredericksburg, Virginia, to visit one of the battlefields. Right by the Fredericksburg Battlefield Visitor Center is the Sunken Road, the site of one of the bloodiest and most futile engagements of the war. 

By the sign

The actual visitor center

The center has several exhibits describing the battles around the town, though the main focus is on the Battle of Fredericksburg, where the Union army charged across the Rappahannock River into the town. The devastation was enormous, with many buildings destroyed and nearly 13,000 casualties on the Union side. The Confederate army had only 5000 casualties. Nine generals were wounded or killed during the conflict which raged from December 11 to 15, 1862.

Diorama of damage based on a photo

The uniforms in the early part of the war were less uniform--many units had their own. Below are some examples. 

From a Pennsylvania unit

Confederate chaplain's coat

A drum used on the battlefield

Weapons

Outside the center, the trail starts at the back of the parking lot with a view up to the cemetery lodge. A large national cemetery was made on Marye's Heights overlooking the Sunken Road and the town.

Cemetery lodge

The road actually is lower than the surrounding terrain, with the hill of Marye's Heights on one side and a retaining wall on the other. The wall near the visitor's center is a reconstruction from the 1930s (there's also a reconstruction from 2004 and some of the original wall).

Not the actual wall, but what it looked like

The ridge of Marye's Heights (looks taller in person)

The Stephens House is no longer present along the road. It was not destroyed in the battle but removed after the war. The foundation was discovered later by archeologists.

Stephens house area

The Innis House is a survivor of the battle though it was so riddled with bullets that Confederate General McLaws quipped that the house "had no space as large as two hands on it that had not been pierced." 

Innis House

A moving memorial is dedicated to Richard Rowland Kirkland, a Confederate soldier. During a lull in the fighting, the land between the Sunken Road and the Union line was littered with the dead and dying. The sounds of their agony inspired him to crawl out with canteens of water to provide some relief to the wounded. He gave water to all the soldiers, Confederate and Union. No soldiers ever fired on him.

Kirkland memorial

Back of the memorial

Also on the Heights is Brompton, a home that is now the private residence of the president of the University of Mary Washington. The university is named after George Washington's mom, who lived in Fredericksburg for a long time.

Brompton

By the Kirkland Monument some of original wall is extant, with a sign describing it.

Original wall

The trail goes up onto the Heights with a view of the town. The Confederates put their artillery up here, a relatively safe spot in the battle that let them easily fire on the Union troops.

Looking into town

Parking lot and visitor center

Some guns

The National Cemetery has mostly soldiers who died in the area, along with some wives. No more burials are happening since it is now full!

Entrance to the cemetery

Small grave markers

A well-funded marker

A New Jersey soldier!

Humphreys Monument commemorates the last charge of the Union on December 13. Humphreys' division was entirely Pennsylvania recruits and lost a quarter of its men in the assault. The State of Pennsylvania funded the monument.

Humphreys Monument

The Fifth Corps Monument was erected in 1901 by General Butterfield, the Union commander at the battle.

Fifth Corps monument

List of various units in the Fifth--see details here

The history of the battle is sobering and marks how the war was a long, frustrating conflict that cost the country a lot.

Tuesday, December 31, 2024

Strasburg, Virginia 2024

While on our Thanksgiving getaway, we spent an afternoon in Strasburg, Virginia. The town was settled by German immigrants who moved south from Pennsylvania. The original town hall was a bit of an eyesore (it was nicknamed the "Sheep Shed" by locals). The new civic center is much more respectable looking.

Town Hall in Strasburg

We had lunch at Box Office Brewery, a small brewery that occupies what was the town's movie theater. It was converted to a brewery, though they still have a stage for live performances, usually on weekend nights.

Box Office Brewery

The brewing area

I started with the Curtain-Call Coconut Porter, which was delightful enough that I bought a four-pack on the way out. We had a variety of typical pub fare like Bavarian pretzels, pizza, burgers, and a chicken quesadilla. My second beer was Irish Red Dawn, a typical red ale that was nice, though not as spectacular as the porter.

Coconut Porter

Smash burger and fries

Pretzel and pepperoni pizza

The town's visitor center is a short drive from downtown, situated on Hupps Hill, the site of a minor American Civil War battle. An interpretive trail leads by some of the earthen works that are still sort of visible. A cave is fenced off so visitors don't stay longer than intended.

Info sign about local battles

A small hollow that provided cover for an artillery piece

The cave

A picture into the cave

The cave from further up the hill

The visitor center has a classic log-cabin look. It includes a gift shop, some exhibits from the Civil War era, and a video about the local battles, including the scorched-earth campaign of the Union in 1864 called The Burning.

Visitor center

Cedar Creek Battle display

A typical Civil War encampment

Work at the homefront

We went back into town to Bretzels at the Strasburg Emporium. The guide at the visitor center recommended it for dessert. It's a typical coffee and sandwich counter with a lot of good choices. I had a gingerbread scone that was very nice.

The local history museum was closed for the season, so we didn't get to go there. My children were happy about that. It was a nice visit to the town.

Tuesday, December 17, 2024

Thanksgiving Getaway 2024

For Thanksgiving, we decided to have a little getaway. Our destination was Star Tannery, Virginia, home of an AirBnB. 

On the way, we stopped in the Centreville/Manassas area. We briefly visited the Manassas National Battlefield Park. The visitor center is not very big but does have a nice 40-minute movie and a light-up diorama in addition to some typical displays.

Visitors Center

Various cannon shells

How they moved artillery around before mechanization

The museum's memorial to fallen soldiers

The First Battle of Manassas/Bull Run was the first battle of the American Civil War. The soldiers in both armies were amateurs and the conflict was very bloody and not at all the decisive conclusion to the war that was expected. Part of the problem was the over 200 different uniforms present, often using reds, blues, and greys on both sides of the conflict. A display showed the variety and similarity of the uniforms. 

A sampling of uniforms

Outside of the museum, we only looked around briefly. The visitor center is right by Henry Hill, a location of the first battle.

View from Henry Hill

Statue of Stonewall Jackson

We popped over to Lab No.1 Asian Bistro for lunch. My wife order Tornado Omurice, a mountain of eggs and rice that looked impressive. I had Okonomiyaki, a fish pancake. 

Tornado Omurice

Okonomiyaki

Our AirBnB was out in the middle of nowhere, a fun place to be for hiking adventures (more about them in other posts). The house includes a fire pit, which we did not use, and a hot tub, which we got a lot of use out of.

Our AirBnB, seen from the car

Too much rain for the fire pit

Yay!

At our AirBnB, we enjoyed the basement game room. It had one of those 12-in-1 tables that had foosball, pool, air hockey, ping pong, shuffleboard, and a few other games. 

The favorite was foosball

Foosball in a different light

Driving around was fun, though at times spooky. The fog (or is it cloud cover?) covered the hills (or are they mountains?) in the distance.

At least it wasn't smoke

We had a fun though smaller Thanksgiving feast. 

Home-made pasta!

Setting the table

Dinner without diners

On our way in, we bought some pies at Woodbine Farm Market, a store near Star Tannery that sells baked goods along with the typical farm market stuff--produce, jams and jellies, local wines and beers, etc. We bought a lemon meringue pie and a pecan pie for our Thanksgiving dessert--yum! 

I wish this was closer to home!

On our way back from the trip, we stopped in Middletown, Virginia.

Festive display

Town playground

Town creek

The town was part of the Battle of Cedar Creek during the American Civil War. On the outskirts are Belle Grove, a plantation house that survived the war and is visitable (which we visited a while ago). Heater House is another building currently being restored by the National Parks

Battlefield

Belle Grove

Heater House

In town, Saint Thomas Chapel was built in the 1830s. During the war it was used as a hospital by the Confederates. When the Union won Cedar Creek, they gutted the building and used it as a stable! It was restored in the 1970s.

St. Thomas Chapel

We also saw the memorial to the 128th New York Regiment, one of the units that fought in the battle.

We could have seen a lot more of these

We went to Winchester, Virginia, to have lunch with my sister at Bonnie Blue Southern Market and Bakery. We arrived early so we spent some time at the extra fancy local library. The Handley Regional Library was funded by Judge John Handley. He left a quarter of a million dollars in his will to Winchester to build a library. He died in the 1895 and the library was not completed until 1913. They did an amazing job.

Library entrance

Library dome

Cool staircase

Cool sign

It was a very fun trip. More about it in subsequent posts!