Showing posts with label Naples. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Naples. Show all posts

Saturday, February 15, 2014

Random Bits of Naples, Italy

Here's some stuff from Naples that didn't merit its own post...

We took the train from Rome to Naples. Luckily, we had reserved seats with a table, allowing us to play card games and do some art along the way. L kept herself busy.

L and the Polar Bear (good job staying inside the lines!)

Camel hiding L

The train station itself has some art--a fountain with a mermaid. J was completely uninterested, which surprised me.

Train station fountain

The station is called Garibaldi after the famous Italian politician. The piazza outside has a statue of the man.

Garibaldi monument

Garibaldi close up

The streets of Naples are fairly compact and run the gamut from empty to busy. We enjoyed the closeness of the buildings if not of the crowds.

Quiet street with a tower in the distance

Santa making his entrance

A busy street

Another busy street

A market!

The street vendors were selling the usual items, though some things were special to Naples. Many stores sell figures, buildings, and other parts of the complex nativity scenes for which the town is famous.

Nativity wares

Another item popular in Naples is the corno, a small red horn that looks like a chile pepper. The horn supposedly wards off the Evil Eye and brings good luck (like a rabbit's foot in America). Lots of people approached us trying to get us to buy a corno.

Corno on sale!

Of course, plenty of restaurants line the streets, and some are not above a little tacky advertising to get patrons in the door.

Why can't we go to this pizzeria?

As with most Italian cities, a great variety of churches can be found. One church had displays of over 30 nativity sets. Sadly they did not allow pictures inside. Another church, the Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco has a chapel of skulls. From the 1600s to the 1800s, those too poor to afford a proper grave were buried here. An odd custom grew up where locals would adopt a skull and pray for that person. Once that soul reached Heaven, they would return the favor by prayer there.

Santa Maria delle Anime dei Purgatorio ad Arco

We saw a variety of other churches and civic buildings from outside.

A random church

This church is fenced off!!

Civic building

Column to St. Januarius?

Memorial to Cajetan


Thursday, February 13, 2014

Complesso Monumentale di San Lorenzo Maggiore, Naples

The Complesso Monumentale di San Lorenzo Maggiore in Naples is a medieval building with a museum upstairs and an archeological excavation downstairs. The ground floor has the cloister, and a courtyard with a well featuring a fine statue of San Lorenzo.

The Cloister at San Lorenzo Maggiore

The well

San Lorenzo in stone

Next to the courtyard is the Sisto V Hall, named after Pope Sixtus V. The 17th century frescoes are amazing. The hall was used as a refectory by the monks; later the Neapolitan Parliament met here.

Sisto V Hall

Detail from ceiling (click to enlarge)

The museum upstairs features a lot of art from various Roman periods, starting with the Graeco-Roman period up to the Renaissance.

Bits of Roman statues

Some more bits

Floor mosaic

Papal medallion

St. Michael and the Dragon

Friar, Madonna and Child, John the Baptist?

Wedding of Mary and Joseph

Princely chair

Bits from an altar

The archeological dig downstairs is the star attraction. It dates back 2000 years and has a wide Roman road in the middle of it.

Down into the archeological area

Roman road

A large variety of shops lined the road, including bakeries, laundries, and the tax collector's office.

A small shop

Larger shop with back rooms, probably the bakery

Stairs going up

At the end of the road is a cryptoporticus--several covered rooms that are connected, providing an "indoor" shopping area. The barrel vaults have skylights to let in light and fresh air.

Into the covered shopping!

One of the vaults

Another staircase

The excavations are quite large and we spent a good time wandering around and occasionally getting separated.

The different levels of the excavation

How did I get separated from the camera?

The final bit

We loved seeing a good variety of things at San Lorenzo Maggiore.

Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Museo Cappella Sansevero, Naples

The Museo Cappella Sansevero is a small chapel museum in the center of Naples. It was first built as a tomb for the di Sangro family in the late 1500s. Prince Raimondo di Sangro had it redone in the Baroque style in the mid 1700s. It's now a popular sight for tourists and locals alike.

Museo Cappella Sansevero

They don't allow pictures inside but they do sell postcards, so I can show some of the highlights. The most famous piece is Cristo Velato or Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino in 1753. The marble veil over Christ's dead body is so well done, it seems like a real veil that could be lifted away.

Cristo Velato, side view

Cristo Velato, top view

Antonio Corradino's sculpture Pudicizia or Modesty shows a veiled woman with a broken plaque behind her. The woman represents Prince Raimondo's mother Cecilia, who died eleven months after giving birth to him.

Pudicizia or Modesty by Antonio Corradino (1752)

Francesco Queirolo's sculpture Disinganno or Disillusion was inspired by Prince Raimondo's father, who had abandoned his son so he could travel and live a debauched life after the death of his wife. Later his father repented and became a priest, hoping to free himself from his sinful past as the man in the sculpture tries to escape the net.

Disinganno or Disillusion by Francesco Queirolo (1753-1754)

The ceiling has a fresco by Francesco Maria Russo of the Glory of Heaven.

Glory of Heaven by Francesco Maria Russo (1749)

The prince was also an alchemist and Grand Master of the Naples' Freemasons. Downstairs from the vaults is the Anatomical Machines by Guiseppe Salerno, which show the circulatory system of a man and a woman. No one knows if they are real arterial systems somehow preserved or they are a highly detailed reproduction. They were a bit gruesome-looking so we hurried the kids past and I did not buy a postcard of them.

The statues alone are worth the price of admission to the Museo Cappella Sansevero.