Alhambra I--Introduction and Alacazaba

The Alhambra started its existence as a 9th century Moorish fortification on the hill overlooking Granada, Spain. Yusuf I, Sultan of Granada, converted it into a royal palace in 1333. The complex was intended to be a paradise on earth and several caliphs of the Nasrid dynasty left their mark in the following 160 years. When the Catholic Monarchs reconquered Granada, they began extensive repairs and extensions. Emperor Charles V built a palace there as well, a model of Spanish Renaissance architecture. The glory of the Alhambra faded over the centuries until Washington Irving stayed there in 1829. He was inspired during his stay to write "Tales of the Alhambra," which fired the imagination of his many readers. It was declared a national monument in 1870 but extensive restoration would only happen in the 20th century. In 1984 it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

We'll start our tour with the furthest away from the entrance but also the furthest away in history--the Alcazaba or the military fort. The fort is on the very point of the hill where the Alhambra is located, commanding a magnificent view of Granada. The view as you approach the fort is more intimidating than exhilarating.

Entrance and main keep

J and I wandered the walls and climbed the towers. Our first climb was the Torre del Homenaje, which is the keep. The view from the top took what breath we had left from climbing the tower.

Looking back to the Nasrid Palaces (left) and Palace of Charles V (right)

We went back down the tower and through the Plaza de Armas, where the soldiers would have been quartered. When the sultans were in control, their guards were stationed here and would have kept order in the Alhambra if necessary.

Too much contrast between the glorious fortification and the humble ruins of the soldiers!

J happy to wander through another maze

From there, we climbed the Torre de la Vela or the Watchtower, where the soldiers could see all of Granada and were able to signal if there was any emergency.

On the way to the watchtower, looking back to the keep

Granada with the cathedral off on the left

More of Granada

The Alcazaba as seen from the Watchtower

Early-era early warning system

We walked over to the Torre de la Polvora or Gunpowder Tower which gave a nice view of the gardens and Red Towers off to our south.

Granada Cathedral closer to the middle as seen from the Gunpowder Tower

Gardens with the Red Towers on the right

We then came back out of the Alcazaba to rejoin Mommy and L at the Palace of Charles V, where they were trying to stay warm. That will be our next post!

Alcazaba in Antequera, Spain

The spot to see in Antequera is the alcazaba and church at the top of the hill. The castle was built by the Moors in the 14th century on the ruins of a Roman fort. The entrance is through the Arch of the Giants, built in 1585. The castle still has some impressive walls and towers, as well as amazing views.

Arco de los Gigantes

The arch leads into the old Arab town, with the entrance to the fort on the right. We stopped in at the information/ticket office on the left, where we bought tickets and received audio guides for the fort and the church (which you can see a bit of through the arch). The ticket seller programmed our guides for English and off we went into the fort.

Puerta de la Alcazaba

The citadel on the hill is about 65,000 square meters and most of the wall still stands. It was home to various groups at various times. Most of the buildings are gone now and gardens have been put in their place.

Gardens inside

Interesting but unidentified tree

Further up we came on the Christian Gate. Built in the 16th century, it leads to where the Christian nobles lived. The gate was part of an inner defensive ring for the fort.

Puerta Cristiana

What's left of the Christians' homes

Further up the hill is the central square or courtyard of the fort, where the soldiers would have their barracks. Also in the courtyard was a hole which we thought was the castle's water well.

Patio de Armas

J by the sign

Mazmorra is what again?

It's pretty deep

The audio guide set us straight. Las mazmorras is the dungeons, so this 6-meter deep hole was home to prisoners. Naturally, the dungeon is right next to the keep, the main fortification.

Climbing the Keep

The keep is home to a clock. It is nicknamed the Papabellotas. A cork oak grove was sold to pay for its construction. The bell in the tower was one of the largest when it was cast and was used for announcing church services, irrigation times, emergencies, or good news. We climbed up the stairs to have a look.

Table with cannonballs inside the tower

The bell (which did not go off while we were there, thankfully)

L and the holey stairs

J looks through the hole too

At the top we had a nice view down the wall to the White Tower, named more for the purity of its appearance than its actual whiteness.

White Tower and hills

The tower is impressive even from inside the fort

Further on we came to the spot where the mosque once stood. The water tank was also in this area. Thick wall foundations are about all that's still visible today.

Mezquita y Aljibe

Over by the eastern walls is a Roman tomb dated to the first century AD.

Tumba Romana

This spot also provides a view of the Pena de los Enamorados or Lovers' Leap. The story goes that Tazgona, daughter of a wealth Moor, was in love with a young Christian from Granada. Neither family would permit them to marry. The young couple was pursued into the mountains. They made it to one of the peaks and leapt together to their deaths. For a similar story from Guam, check out this Forgotten Tale I recorded.

Pena de los Enamorados

Walking further down the eastern walls, we saw the roof of the Real Colegiata de Santa Maria, which was our next stop and will be the next post!

Real Colegiata de Santa Maria roof